- Highcountry
- Western Colorado
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- Saturday June 26, 1999
- We left Dinosaur
National Monument traveling southeast on U.S. 40 to
Dinosaur, CO. Outside of town, we made a brief stop at
the Visitor Center (southeastern entry for Dinosaur
National Monument). As soon as we committed to
driving into their parking area, we found the driveway
turn was a very tight squeeze. We scrubbed through --
adding our own black mark to a well-established
collection, but did not have to unhook the toad. Our best
advice in such situations is to stop and survey the
location, if you decide to proceed take it slow and easy
(Our choice this time!), and unhook the tow vehicle if
needed. One other time at a Forest Service Visitor Center
in the Medicine Bow Mountains (WY), we had unhooked the
explorer and took the motorhome on through a circle
turnaround drive. This is the first time that we had
encountered the problem at a National Park Service
facility.
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- From Dinosaur, CO we headed southeast on route 64 to
Rangely, then turned south on highway 139. The arid
valley landscape was mostly empty except for oil wells,
pipelines, and equipment. We encountered very few other
vehicles or people. Not until we reached the White River
at Rangely and proceeded south along Douglas Creek did we
see a few widely scattered ranches. Eventually we climbed
out of the river bottoms and ascended the Roan Plateau,
finally crossing the mountains through Douglas Pass,
elevation 8,240'. The road was narrow, sometimes in
rather poor repair, and under construction in some slide
areas. This was not quite as high an elevation as we had
encountered at Summit Pass in Uintas (8,428'), but here
the grade was sometimes 7.5 to 8%. This was steep. We
would not attempt it without the assist of the diesel
exhaust brake. We took it slow, enjoyed the fantastic
views, and had no problem venturing on to Fruita, CO,
where we camped for the night.
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- June 27th

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Immediately south of Fruita, CO across
Interstate 70 is the Colorado
National Monument. The thirty-two square
mile park sits on the edge of the Umcompahgre
Uplift, a part of the larger Colorado Plateau
that extends on westward to Arches, Bryce Canyon
and the Grand Canyon. We entered the national
park through its west entrance and began
climbing up over 2,000 feet above the Grand
Valley of the Colorado River. This was the start
of a spectacular 23 mile highcountry rimrock
drive. Even though we knew the tunnels here
exceeded our 1l.5' vehicle height, it was still
hard not to duck as we proceeded on through.
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On our way up, we caught glimpses of the old
'dugway trail' up the cliff sides. It was built
before the turn of the century, that's the
nineteenth century, to run a pipeline for
bringing fresh springwater from the Pinon Mesa
down to Fruita. It was also used by cattleman to
move their herds up to high grazing for the
summer. In places it is about a cow's width
wide, barely allowing a wagon to pass. The old
trail is now a hiking route, as is the first
road into the park that was built by John Otto,
the Serpent's Trail (On the east end of the
Monument). On top, the drive winds along the
plateau rim. It should be taken leisurely with
several stopping points, constant scenic views,
and numerous hiking trails.
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You have to take it easy, because this CCC
constructed roadway has a 35 mph (56 km) speed
limit. Depression-era Civilian
Conservation Corps workman built the road up
and around these shear limestone cliffs with
sledgehammers, drill, pick and shovel plus
dynamite and dumptrucks for thirty-five to forty
dollars a month, most of which went home to
their families. Blasting was the first step in
this solid rock landscape, then the men would
finish up with hand tools. The CCCers were
housed and fed on the Monument. In December1933,
nine road workers were killed in a tunnel
blasting accident just before Christmas. In the
winter of 1936, water lines to the camps froze
and it took all winter for the line to be
thawed.
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This area was declared a national monument by
President
William Howard Taft, May 24, 1911. John Otto
was the early proponent for making the area a
national park and became its first caretaker,
holding the job until 1927 for the wage of one
dollar a month. Otto live alone in the then wild
and desolate canyon country southwest of Grand
Junction. This is high desert country, winters
bring freezing weather and summers are hot and
dry. Some thought he was crazy. His main
companions were burros. A brief few-month
marriage to a New England artist ended on her
abrupt departure from their tent-home. As
caretaker he built miles of tortuous trails so
that others could enjoy the park.
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- We left the park by its eastern entrance (near Grand
Junction, CO). This was a great place, deserved more time
than we gave it. This was a good time of the year to
visit; it was not too crowded nor extremely hot --
probably even better in May-June. There's lots more
hiking and biking trails. But then it was time for us to
drive south on U.S. 50 through Montrose and past
Cimarron, CO. East of town, we found and camped at what
came to be our favorite campsite of the summer.
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- Created by Annette
Lamb and
Larry
Johnson,
1/99.
- Updated, 2/00
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