- Pleasant
Valley-Western Colorado
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- June 27, 1999
- Since leaving Salt Lake a few days ago, we had been
traveling, sightseeing, and covering lots of ground. It
was time to slow down the pace. Therefore we were looking
for an exceptional campsite. We wanted to be out in the
country in quiet, relaxed setting.
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We ended up at a small campground east of
Cimarron, CO alongside U.S. 50. It is not listed
in the Woodall's or Trailer Life Directories. We
drove past it on the way to a neighboring
campground, but on closer inspection decided to
drive back a few miles to Pleasant Valley. There
were only nine back-in sites along the banks of
Cimarron Creek. Each had 30 amp. electrical
service, along with water and sewer hookups. The
altitude here was about 7,500 feet. There was no
cable television or cell phone service here in
the mountains; a pay phone was available at the
campground store.
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We were parked under the trees with the back
of our rig about fifteen feet from the bank of
the fast-moving stream. We easily sited our
satellite dish through the trees so that we
could catch the weather channel and CNN. So we
brought out the lounge chairs, fired up the
grill, and cooked our meal. Ben played us tunes
on the guitar and we zoned out. There were
hardly any bugs. Once the sun went down it was
cool at this elevation; there was no need for
air conditioning. During the day, it warmed up
but the fans cooled the interior of our coach.
With our campsite's proximity to the mountain
stream and its distance away from the highway,
we were not bothered by the noise of the truck
and other vehicle traffic. At night, the highway
did not seem all that busy. This was great!
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- June 28th
- After packing the cooler, we headed out in the Toad.
Our first stop was the nearby Curecanti
National Recreation Area, located just a few miles
from our campground. We hiked the Pine Creek Trail that
follows the Gunnison River Canyon below Blue Mesa Lake to
the Morrow Point boat dock. This easy trail follows a
section of a narrow-gauge railroad bed. In 1882 the
Denver &
Rio Grande Railroad completed building its 'Scenic
Line of the World' through the upper part of the canyon
and on to Cimarron and Montrose. In 1899, English author
Rudyard
Kipling described a trip on the railroad:
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- "We seemed to be running into the bowels of the
earth at the invitation of an irresponsible stream. The
solid rock would open up and disclose a curve of awful
twistfulness. Then the driver put on all steam, and we
would go round that curve on one wheel chiefly, the
Gunnison River gnashing its teeth below."
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- The railroad operated here until 1949. There were
very few people on the trail, and we enjoyed having the
place all to ourselves. We caught site of several swifts
and swallows, a hawk or two, and kept our eye out for a
golden eagle. The rushing river and twisting channel gave
us ever-changing views as we meandered down and back the
canyon. Our round-trip hike that day was about two miles
total and the only climbs were down-to and up-out of the
river canyon at the parking lot.
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After our walk, we drove on through the town
of Gunnison and north to the mountain ski resort
of Crested
Butte. Summertime found Crested Butte busy
with hikers, bikers, and tourists like us (City
Hall at Left). We ate lunch at one of the many
open-air restaurants, toured the shops, made a
few purchases, and then headed back to our
campground. There we relaxed around the
campground, hiked around the grounds and nearby
lake, and again had an evening cookout and
campfire.
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- June 29th
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- Unfortunately, it was time to leave this idyllic spot
and head out. First stop was to drive into and take
another look at the Gunnison River Canyon and Gorge, this
time from the vantage point of the Black
Canyon of the Gunnison National Monument., soon to
become a national park. We were impressed by the narrow,
deep, sheer, dark gray walls of schist and gneiss rock.
After hiking down a short path to the overlook, we
stopped in at the visitor center, then headed out of the
parking lot. Because Larry took a wrong turn here, we
ended up making a loop out around the south canyon rim
until we reached the high point turnaround where we could
double-back toward the entrance. However, this
'unexpected' side trip gave us great views of the chasm.
We decided that this park definitely warrants a return
visit for lots more hiking; the best way to see what is
now one of our newest national parks.
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- Next we turned south at Montrose and followed Highway
550 down the river valley. About thirty miles down the
road, we again began climbing into the San Juan
Mountains. This led us through the growing Ouray mountain
town and on up to the Red Mountain Pass (Elevation 11,018
feet). We stopped up at this summit to stretch our legs
and explore around the ghost
town of this former mining area (Photos Below). We
saw a lot of evidence of recent work to reclaim some of
this land from the destructive mining operations,
especially efforts to contain and eliminate contaminated
water. Leaving the summit, we cruised on down to
Silverton. Another former mining community, Silverton
with its historic train from Durango is now a bustling
summer tourist town. We spent a little time checking out
the town, sticking our nose into a few stores, and eating
lunch. With a much-needed fill-up of diesel fuel, we
headed on south toward Durango. This was a day for
crossing some high mountain peaks. On our way we cruised
over Molas Divide (10,910 ft.) and Coalbank Pass (10,640
ft.). The mountain elevations made for great
scenery.
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- From Durango, we branched off westward on Highway
160. Our destination was another rural campground, the
Echo Basin Ranch
northeast of Mancos, CO. We found the campground, parked
the rig under some tall Ponderosa Pines on the bank of a
small lake - - on second thought, maybe that was a small
pond. From our campsite, we looked out on a mountain
meadow where a herd of horses were kept. The ranch had
its own rodeo grounds, restaurant, and pool. But we chose
this camp because of its proximity to Mesa
Verde National Park, not for its amenities. In fact,
I don't think we are going to spend too much extra time
around the campground in the next couple of days.
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- Created by Annette
Lamb and
Larry
Johnson,
1/99
- Updated, 2/00
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to Trip Page
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